The highlight, not that one needs it in this setting, is watching one of the aforementioned ulak tartysh matches. This is a variation on polo with a rugby-style tackle to win the ‘game’ – a dead goat to be feasted on by the winners. Scenes on the plateau by the shores of Lake Kara-Suu, filled with fire and sparkling skies. It is impossible not to romanticize this land. Carpets of herbs are crushed underfoot, releasing a continuous fragrance as meadow flowers brush our staples. There are no nettles, because the ground has never been ploughed, just a sea of tulips, hollies, alpine irises, peonies and many other species beloved of English country gardens, cultivated by botanists in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The continuity of nature permeates everything and sustains me long after returning home. As he told Sarah Siese
How to do it
Alexandra Tolstoy’s travels offer unrivaled access to this historically, culturally and geographically fascinating region. Scheduled rides run in conjunction with True Travel in Sary-Chelek, Kyrgyzstan, in May and September, but custom trips can also be arranged. Prices start from £4,485. See alexandratolstoy.co.uk for more information. Flights with Turkish Airlines (turkishairlines.com) from London to Bishkek via Istanbul cost from £438.
What to pack
Pack clothing for both warm weather during the day and chilly evenings at camp. Each rider must also take their own pillow, sleeping bag and liner, inflatable sleeping mat, riding hat, jodhpurs (I recommend Goode Rider and Hyland and some lightweight Brora bombachos), riding boots and short boots, waterproofs, hat, towel and water bottle water.
